IFTH guides textile and clothing players into the future

Since its design in 2000, it has been a hub for Innovation, Certification and Design. Missions to which Sustainable Fashion has been added more recently. Headed by Clarisse Reille, the Institut Français du Textile et de l'Habillement (IFTH) is first and foremost the Industrial Technical Institute for these two sectors. Because of the versatility of textiles, it also works with sectors such as Automotive, Aeronautics, Healthcare, Construction...

Clarisse Reille is convinced: "we'll need more and more technical textiles for clothing" whether that's "to cope with the vagaries of climate", "to address Sustainable Fashion" or "working at the confluence of fields like Health". IFTH plays a key role, thanks to its 145 employees, including 110 engineers and technicians.

The Institute supports companies in their innovation and technical development initiatives. More generally, it nurtures the entire ecosystem by keeping an active watch on new developments in the industry. 

One of its strengths is the development of functional fibers and fabrics. In addition to developing totally new fibers, IFTH teams can also functionalize an existing fiber or give a function to a recycled fiber. IFTH also has the capacity to develop fibers and fabrics with low environmental impact, while shedding light on the appropriate regulations.

As for its major testing and certification facilities, they are a must. A sign of its pre-eminence: it's the only Oeko-Tex representative in France!

Its rich Training division helps contract manufacturers recruit, among other things, via job orientation courses. "We take care of everything: setting up (including financially) the training in relation to the company's needs, selecting candidates with Pôle Emploi...".

Finally, its latest addition, LE LAB by IFTH is a valuable new tool in the service of eco-responsible fashion. Installed since March 2021 at the Caserne in Paris, this technical platform enables professionals to discover and test innovative and virtuous solutions, whether in virtualization, manufacturing or performance evaluation.

Industrie du Futur

IFTH, is also involved in collective projects such as the Innofabmod program, dedicated to the Industry of the Future in garment making, initiated in 2018 and co-financed by the Institute, the Pays de la Loire region and the EU. After a phase of experimentation at six contract manufacturers, ERP or Lean Management approaches entered a phase of dissemination of lessons learned in early 2023.

Following their development, and since the end of January 2023, three cobots - to facilitate ironing, transporting heavy loads or folding - are being tested for a year, before their potential duplication.

Starting in mid-2022 with 60 brands, the Durhabi program will assess the durability of textile products through washing and testing. Initial results are expected by the end of June. Finally, a study aims to "age" the elements of the latest measurements campaign to see "how consumers are evolving".

But IFTH is also in a position to imagine innovative solutions facilitating the relocation of a French way with "three strands: equipment, digitalization and process" says Clarisse Reille. The aim is to achieve manufacturing, if not on demand, at least "reactive and efficient". All the more reason for retailers and brands to develop Made in France capsules.

Among the avenues of research, Clarisse Reille mentions the development of "more versatile machines", "better parameterized", to shorten production time, "more fluid interfaces with the entire value chain, in particular principals" and finally, "the alliance of digital and processes", to "have the capabilities to analyze production to readjust it".

Finally, there's no doubt in the mind of its director that IFTH will be a lever for "France 2030", the vast investment project desired by Emmanuel Macron, with 54 billion euros at stake. Textile innovation can solve a whole range of problems in all sectors," stresses Clarisse Reille. We're just at the beginning of a real revolution in flexible materials. At IFTH, we're clearly working towards this goal."