Repairability and repair: a major challenge for the clothing circular economy
For French contract manufacturers, repairs could be a promising outlet in the new framework created by the AGEC law. But a number of obstacles still need to be overcome.
"With the new obligations of the AGEC law, brands will have to integrate repair services to meet consumer expectations and promote the sustainability of their products", Myriam Mentfakh, the founder of LeLabPlus located in the Paris region, is convinced: reparability and repair must become pillars of the textile industry and a guarantee of quality for consumers.
Created in 2012, LeLabPlus has repositioned itself since 2020 as a product development unit and textile production workshop around 100% Made in France. Three years ago, Myriam Mentfakh opened a recycling and repair unit at LeLabPlus.
She's not the only one to be aware of this major issue, whether in BtoB or BtoC. On the BtoB side, the Maison des Savoir-Faire et de la Design networking platform added a new criterion before the summer that manufacturers can include in their company details, signalling to principals their ability to carry out repairs.
New life for damaged clothing
Myriam Mentfakh, Founder LeLabPlus. Crédit photos : ©LeLabPlus">On the BtoC side, initiatives are flourishing to enable the general public to give their damaged clothes a new lease of life. Online platforms such as Tilli, a network of 500 French artisans, or Les Réparables, with two workshops in France, take on textile items for repair all over the country. Save Your Wardrobe, winner of the LVMH Start-up Grand Prix in mid-2023, caters to the needs of premium and luxury brands. It sets up repair services on their e-commerce sites or in-store, thanks to its network of partner workshops.
But the real boost was the launch at the end of 2023, of the repair bonus. Driven by the ReFashion eco-organization, set up by the TLC (Textiles, Household Linen and Footwear) sector, the scheme enables consumers to benefit from discounts on services provided by approved repairers.
The ESS (Social and Solidarity-based Economy) company 13 A'tipik, founded in 2011 by Sahouda Maallem in Marseille, has thus been approved by Refashion for its repair activity since November 2023. This back-to-work workshop specializes primarily in the reuse and upcycling of clothing and textile accessories."Repair is not our core profession, but we've always provided a service in the neighborhood, explains Sahouda Maallem. Located on a busy street, we have a shop window where we used to indicate that we did alterations. We are now indicating that we can pass on the repair bonus".
Repair bonus
Sahouda Maallem, Founder 13 A'tipik. Crédit photos : ©13A'tipik">Very slightly increased thanks to bonuses (used for around two out of every five orders), repair will only represent around 10% of its business in 2024 compared with 80% for waste repurposing via clothing upcycling and 10% for the manufacture of capsule collections for brands. But while remaining focused on textile recycling, 13 A'tipik is equipping itself to meet the growing needs of the repair sector. It has recruited a second dedicated person and will be training a third, as part of its team of around 50 people (including some 15 permanent staff, 30 employees on integration schemes and two apprentices).
To raise awareness of this service, in addition to regular communications via social networks, 13 A'tipik took part in the Refashion Academy days in Marseille at the end of October. "At kiosks set up on the Place du Général de Gaulle, we taught the general public how to use a sewing machine to repair a garment", describes Sahouda Maallem. This mission is also carried out every Tuesday morning by 13 A'tipik, during "Repar'Café" workshops for the general public in its hub space, equipped with sewing machines, initially open for rental to designers. Around ten people who come with a damaged garment are welcomed by the dedicated team, who introduce them to repairing.
As part of a project financed by the metropolis, the formula is set to intensify in 2025, with two or even three weekly workshops. "Each time, we'll ask the participant to bring, in addition to the garment to be repaired, at least one other piece they want to part with. We'll recover it for our other recovery missions", explains Sahouda Maallem. She stresses the importance of her mission in Marseille in managing their textile waste, with more than 3 kg deposited in household waste per year, compared with 2.4 kg nationwide.
A slow evolution
Photo credit : ©LeLabPlus">Sahouda Maallem admits that "repair requests are slowly evolving", with "still a lot of work to do to raise awareness among the general public". Yet his customers are "generally very happy" with services that, thanks to bonuses, enable them to give new life at lower cost to clothes they paid more for and hold dear. "Some customers are very loyal. One of them has even come at least ten times to repair the same pair of jeans!".
Like Sahouda, Myriam Mentfakh (LeLabPlus) is convinced of the need to develop repair in France. "ReFashion has initiated a positive movement with the repair label, but it's still not enough. For this to be viable and profitable, we need to set up centralized repair cells where brands can direct the products they have recovered", she throws in, convinced that "repair will only work if brands integrate it into their sales channels. This will not only boost loyalty, but also anchor more responsible practices in the textile industry in the long term".
Her demonstration draws on her experience. LeLabPlus started its BtoB repair business serving premium homes, then, in 2021, initiated BtoBtoC with Le Slip Français, a "very committed brand" that sent it back products to be repaired by customers (for example, by changing their elastics). When ReFashion boosted the repair bonus, LeLabPlus naturally got involved in BtoC repair. "The structure receives products with high added value, garments with emotional appeal or parts bought at a high price. We've never repaired clothes bought on platforms such as Shein or Temu!", observes Myriam Mentfakh.
But repair today remains insignificant in terms of sales for LeLabPlus. "It's not yet a viable model for us," stresses the manager. The general public doesn't usually go to factories but to alterers to have their items repaired. As a committed SME, we need to guarantee the profitability of our actions. That's why it's essential to co-construct with brands the repair of tomorrow".
Myriam Mentfakh's idea for achieving this? "There are starting to be management platforms, but software isn't enough. We also need structured repair cells with the brands to have complete traceability of processes". She puts forward several arguments: "when a brand directs its products to a retoucher, even one with a quality label, it is essential to ensure that the service provider understands the customer's request, and respects the brand's specifications and quality standards. We can't afford to have a disappointing result, especially for technical or high-end products".
The question of repair responsibility
Photo credit : ©LeLabPlus">"In the event of repair problems, we are responsible, agrees Sahouda Maallem (13 A'tipik). We've taken out civil liability insurance to cover ourselves. But if the repair is too risky, we prefer not to do it. In five years, there has only been one challenge from a customer...". With the repair bonus, the approved workshop is also required to take photos before its intervention. "This represents a constraint, but it's logical that this bonus should be associated with a right of inspection. And so we have proof of the condition of the product at the time it is handed over to us", observes the director of 13 A'tipik.
To facilitate the repairer-customer dialogue, LeLabPlus relies on a valuable technological tool, that of 3D design, via its Style 3D software, coupled with artificial intelligence. "We're already using this technology to develop innovative reuse solutions, and right from eco-design, to anticipate repair options, explains Myriam Mentfakh.With these tools, we'll be able to offer consumers tailored, innovative solutions to extend the life of their garments."
Another necessity attached to the design of "repair cells": guaranteeing after-sales responsibility and compliance with social and environmental rules: "Today, when an item is entrusted to a repairer, it's difficult to check whether it complies with CSRD (Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive) standards. By creating cells in referenced companies, we'll be able to ensure that processes are compliant, and brands will know under what conditions items are repaired."
Concretely, it will involve co-constructing these cells with the brands. Precise specifications will define the materials to be used (threads and fabrics, accessories, external sources) for the design of matériauthèques. "The aim is to standardize processes within an initial cell, before duplicating them across France. This will enable consumers to repair their items as close to home as possible, with complete confidence."
Lifting the brakes: information and training
Photo credit : ©13A'tipik">With such an approach, "our repair business would be viable, believes the LeLabPlus manager. While brands would strengthen customer loyalty". Another benefit: repair cells identify weak points in products. This "supports brands in improving their eco-design" valuable data. But to give a real boost to the repair business, some obstacles still need to be removed.
Starting with insufficient information for the general public, with first of all the belief that "the cost of repair is too high compared to that of new products, observes Myriam Mentfakh. Certainly, if the product comes from the mass-market, repair makes no sense. The aim is to reinscribe repair in our consumer habits." According to a 2021 Opinion Way Survey for Refashion, 35% of respondents thought that repairing would cost more than buying new. 22% didn't even think about repairs, and as many didn't know that sewing shops could do it.
Another major obstacle: the problem of training and the lack of repair specialists in France. 13 A'tipik is tackling this by developing, with its OPCO, a 160 to 200-hour training course, integrated into the AFEST (Action de Formation En Situation de Travail) scheme and aiming for certification in 2025."Our repair training center would make it possible to meet huge needs. The basic training is for seamstresses, but ours will be specific to repair. The idea is to encourage more people to set up with this activity. In doing so, we'll reduce textile waste", explains Sahouda Maallem.
For her part, Myriam Mentfakh (LeLabPlus) points out that she already benefits from a "highly qualified staff", with all her employees able to repair. But her company's aim is also"to train the new generation in repair". The company has been Qualiopi accredited since 2022 on several training modules, including one on revalorization and repair.
Coexistence of SSE workshops and private companies
Photo credit : ©13A'tipik">Furthermore, the executive observes that "today, repair is essentially carried out by SSE structures. That's all well and good, but they shouldn't be the only ones doing it, as the people working there leave at the end of their training. But the repair professions must be sustainable". According to her, we therefore need "a real bridge between SSE structures and SMEs, enabling the latter to appropriate the savoir-faire and structure repair in a way that is viable in the long term. While respecting the imperatives of profitability, SMEs must be able to engage in repair with solid, durable designs. This complementarity between private structures and the SSE is essential to guarantee the continuity of savoir-faire and to respond effectively to repair needs.".
In the end, the repair game must be a win-win for everyone: consumers, who will be able to keep their items longer, brands, which will build brand loyalty, and Made in France manufacturers and repairers, who will offer themselves a profitable new outlet. "To have a real impact and put an end to overproduction, it's imperative to place revalorization and repair at the heart of our practices, concludes Myriam Mentfakh, CEO of LeLabPlus.
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