L'Atelier Boivin, France's last historic cravatier

Under the leadership of Philippe Balsenq, Atelier Boivin has preserved its artisanal heritage while renewing itself in the face of market developments. Through controlled diversification and a dedication to the values of made in France, the company has established itself as a key player in luxury craftsmanship, combining tradition and creativity to meet the demands of leading homes and contemporary designers alike.

An array of accessories of excellence

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The Atelier Boivin is initially renowned for its savoir-faire in the manufacture of ties, an accessory emblematic of its history as Philippe Balsenq recalls: "in the old days, there was a queue every Monday morning when the shopkeepers came to buy the ties for the week!". Thus, the workshop has been able to evolve by diversifying its designs, "we produce ties, bow ties, scrunchies and silk ribbons in equal measure (...) but we can also make headbands, headbands, scarves, brooches, ascots, lavalieres, etc.", explains the manager.

These developments reflect an ability to adapt to societal trends. While the bow tie has enjoyed a marked ascendancy in recent years, the cravat is making a notable comeback without affecting the popularity of its neighbor. However, the COVID-19 crisis has changed consumer habits, particularly with the rise of teleworking, which has reduced the use of formal accessories. The tie is now positioned more as an element of style rather than a sartorial obligation, but it "still finds its place in specific environments such as politics, the luxury hotel industry or internationally, where it retains its traditional role", he points out. A large proportion of the atelier's production - almost half - is destined for export.

The plurality of Atelier Boivin's product offerings is also boosted by the association with leather specialist Atelier Bower, also headed by Philippe Balsenq. The latter draws on complementary savoir-faire to offer unique products, such as leather bags adorned with silk bow fastenings, or sets combining tie and waistband setting machine for the hospitality industry.

A "haute façon"

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At the heart of Atelier Boivin's artisanal excellence lies a mastery of finishing. "All the pieces we make have one thing in common: they're sewn, turned inside out, and the finishing touches are always done by hand and invisibly", stresses Philippe Balsenq. This attention to detail translates into the proposition of "options and seams such as hand-rolled hem, collar stitching - enabling the part that sits on the nape of the neck to be perfectly adjusted - or special finishes such as a particular bridle or Bourdon stitch", he explains.

These techniques, requiring manual expertise, have become a hallmark of the finishing station: "It's a particularity of luxury, finishing is by hand for all accessories. I even encourage schools to teach their students more! We're looking for people who know how to do hand stitches, who have that meticulousness. Without that, they won't be able to get into the big Home", insists Philippe Balsenq. This quest for perfection in every detail explains why Atelier Boivin is considered a true partner for luxury: "It's this level of finishing that explains the price of luxury, because everything has to be perfect, and that takes a substantial amount of time."

To go even further, the company has developed signature details for its own brand, such as the tie's star tip, which reveals the ease thread, testifying to entirely manual assembly:"this thread, which retracts when the tie is knotted, guarantees its solidity while adding an aesthetic touch", Philippe Balsenq points out. The quest for product innovation is also driven by a desire to optimize resources by transforming material offcuts from the workshop and its customers: "We make chouchous from umbrella canvas offcuts, for example, or pouches that double as eyeglass cases. We've developed origami barrettes or clip-on bow ties for sneakers". This quest for singularity illustrates Atelier Boivin's artisanal and creative spirit, because "in accessories, there is no limit to creativity", exclaims the manager.

A commitment to Made in France and to the future

L'Atelier Boivin defends with conviction the values of Made in France,"whose basis is the quality of the material" expresses the manager. This commitment to quality is linked to an ecological dimension, where the workshop favors products designed to last. "I hope that purchasing behavior will evolve towards 'consume less, but better'" explains the manager. "I'm disappointed because during Covid I really believed in the consumer's awareness and ability to choose made in France (...) what reassures me is that the consumer knows how to recognize the right material, I've seen it at shows, whether it's fabric or leather", he testifies.

The atelier also works in concert with the major luxury Houses to preserve traditional French savoir-faire. "The major luxury Home brands are true partners, especially when it comes to finding solutions and preserving savoir-faire", says Philippe Balsenq. This collaborative spirit enables the atelier to continue innovating while preserving its artisanal heritage. "Internationally, we won't make the difference on price, that's for sure, so we really have to offer high quality and savoir-faire, explains Philippe Balsenq.

The future of Atelier Boivin therefore rests on the transmission of its savoir-faire and its capacity for continuous innovation. "To stabilize our business, we'll need to forge partnerships and perhaps consider regrouping. I think that at some point, to perpetuate our savoir-faire, we're going to have to join forces and continue recruiting", anticipates Philippe Balsenq. Against a backdrop of skilled labor shortages, the atelier is banking on collaboration to maintain its leadership in the luxury sector.

To find out more about this exceptional savoir-faire, discover the Atelier Boivin company sheet on our platform!