Courtois Paris: guardian of hat maker savoir-faire
From a chance encounter, Courtois Paris has today become an international benchmark for made-in-France millinery, crafting all types of headwear in its workshops in Normandy and Paris. Founder Marguerite Courtois tells us about her history and her determination to preserve the French savoir-faire of her Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (EPV).
Ten years ago, Courtois Paris was born, the result of the encounter between the expertise of one of France's last master hat makers, Frédéric Sécheux, with over 30 years' experience, trained at Home Michel and having established his workshop in Honfleur, and the enthusiasm of a young business school student, Marguerite Courtois, on vacation in Normandy.
The latter discovered Frédéric's boutique and its exceptional savoir-faire. An entrepreneurial project soon germinated, that of joining forces to bring the craftsman's magnificent creations to a wider public: "his savoir-faire was precious, it tended not to be passed on any more, but I wanted to preserve it", explains Marguerite Courtois, so "I proposed, in parallel with my studies, to create THE French hat home and thus open two boutiques in Paris successively". An audacious gamble that proved to be a winner!
Unique artisanal savoir-faire
Photo credit :© Courtois Paris">The 20-strong Courtois Paris team creates exceptional products every day, appreciated by major luxury brands looking for hats made with care and talent, but also by young brands attentive to Made in France quality and in search of sound consulting.
A wide choice of materials is worked at the heart of the workshops, such as "felt, panama, sisal, sewn straw, wool, cashmere, cotton, velvet and even woolly skin. We also work with buntal and parabuntal", lists the founder.
To make their headwear, traditional gestures mingle with the use of machines, metal presses and molds dating back to the 19th century, testifying to the meticulous attention paid to every detail within the different workshops, which work in true synergy: "in Paris we do the prototyping, we work on the woollen skin and we do a lot of finishing as well as the bespoke service. We also welcome customers to discover our collection of 400 shapes. At Frédéric's historic workshop in Normandy, we carry out prototyping for the most difficult designs, with wooden forms, felt and straw work. Finally, at the Villevaudé workshop, we make hats with a metal press for larger batches".
Meticulous manufacturing techniques
Photo credit :© Courtois Paris">Marguerite Courtois explains that "the time it takes to make a hat will depend on its shape and material, it can range from 2h to 6h".
She details the main manufacturing stages for hand-formed draping: "we finish the material, i.e. we put a kind of glue inside the hat to give it rigidity. Then we wet it and leave it to rest, to impregnate. Once this has been done, for felt, for example, we place the hat on a kind of pressure cooker with high heat and steam to relax the fabric. Then we shape the hat on the wooden mold, using a snap ring to hold the felt in place. Leave to dry. Finally, we unmold and add all the finishing touches, such as the ribbon at the entrance to the head, the ribbon on the outside, the edge finish, and so on. The final touch is pampering with a little brush".
Photo credit :© Courtois Paris">"This highly artisanal savoir-faire is also complemented by the use of metal presses which, although different, require unparalleled expertise and precision", Marguerite explains. The use of these machines is very specific, which means that only a few hat makers are able to make their hats with such tools. This savoir-faire risks disappearing if it is not passed on. At Courtois Paris, the team is determined to share and teach its craftsmen these invaluable skills!
Answers to every creative request
Photo credit :© Courtois Paris">The opening of the Paris boutiques initiated by Marguerite has brought the Honfleur craftsman's precious savoir-faire to a new audience. These customer-facing venues play an essential role as showcases for brands in search of manufacturers. "We show them the extent of our savoir-faire and give them consulting. It also enables them to locate us and come and see us directly", explains Marguerite Courtois.
The proximity to customers and the responsiveness of the on-site team, are major assets, since this enables us to respond to all creative requests with quality criteria and requirements pushed to the maximum, whether for luxury Home or to make bespoke items for individuals and VIPs.
The founder can thus talk to us about current trends, such as: "the floppy hat, for protection from the sun, there's also the bucket hat which has really come back into fashion, the somewhat baseball cap and must-have items like the fedora, the borsalino..."., and thus meet the varied needs of her discerning clientele.
This also enables her to continually develop a strong creative force coupled with a responsible approach: "we recycle our offcuts by creating unique designs in-store, since we're lucky enough to produce everything ourselves". In line with this eco-responsible business practice, Marguerite Courtois expresses that in her view, Made in France is taking on significant importance:"Currently, it's associated more with ecological concerns and the preservation of savoir-faire. Brands are now looking for partners with recognized savoir-faire, responsiveness, a shorter circuit and the possibility of producing without imposing minimum quantities."
By succeeding in making ancestral savoir-faire shine with the most prestigious luxury brands and attracting young talent to her workshops to ensure their longevity, Marguerite Courtois has taken up a major challenge that remains with her at all times. This vision is embodied by a dynamic team made up of members under the age of 30, who are fully committed to the living transmission of these skills to future generations.
For more information: https://courtoisparis.fr/
